Kenya, July 2016

 

Raquel and I celebrated the end of our 4+ years teaching in Fujairah and 1 year of happy marriage with a Kenyan adventure. This trip is the beginning of an exciting 6-12 months of travelling and limbo, with no job lined up and our next direction unknown.

In Kenya we experienced rich diversity in many ways. To get around we walked, ran, cycled, swam, rode in cars, matatus (minibuses), safari 4WD, train, motorbike, plane, and glass bottom boat! In accommodation we couchsurfed in Nairobi's Eastlands next to the massive Soweto slums, stayed with a mix of locals through Airbnb and friends, and slept in a cabin next to Masai Mara National Park, with a multitude of night time noises including hyenas! Trips to the long drop toilet during the dark of night were only for the brave or desperate! In the food department, we savoured delicious fresh local avocados, mangos, papayas, bananas, fish, cashew nuts and veggies. Happy foodies we were!

Bartering is something Raquel and I don't enjoy, but it is a must to avoid getting ripped off in Kenya, particularly for Muzungos! We were buying postcards from one guy who quoted $3.50 each, at which point we walked out of the shop in fits of laughter! He asked what our offer price was, we said $0.50, and he accepted without a fight - one seventh of the original price!!

Our overnight train from Nairobi to Mombasa was supposed to leave at 7pm and arrive at 10am. Due to some breakdown of another engine on the single line, our train was delayed. It departed 7 hours late at 2am! The upside was we enjoyed most of the journey in daylight and views of elephants in Tsavo National Park as we were served lunch. We were told we'd arrive in Mombasa at 10pm (12 hours late). Unfortunately the train never reached its final destination due to another 'supposed' blockage. Then, in the darkness at 7:30pm (only 9.5 hours late, but much earlier than previously stated) on the outskirts of Mombasa, expensive taxis were arranged to transport us to our accommodations! We felt conned, but were powerless to avoid being ripped off. At least we reached beautiful Diani Beach safely.

I visited Masai Mara 3 years ago, but I was happy to return to this wildlife heaven, this time with Raquel. July is the time of the great wildebeest migration between Serengeti in Tanzania and the Mara. Thousands of them act like lawn mowers, turning the long grasses into a length similar to a parched garden. From a distance they look like ants, and this is a time of plenty for the big cats, hyenas and vultures. We were spoiled with our sightings of lions - big males, mums and little cubs; cheetahs - mum with her 3 older cubs and 1 with fresh kill; elephants, giraffes and much more. We spent half a day looking for a leopard, but failed to find this nocturnal and shy member of the Big 5. Only 20 rhinos live in the Mara and I would have loved to see one of these heavily poached and rare beasts, but it didn't happen. The cutest animal gained many 'awws...' - the busy and happy looking warthog, with its antenna-like tail springing up when it went for a bouncy run.

The things we will not miss about Kenya though is the shocking state of most of the roads and the often gridlocked roads of Nairobi. The lack of running water reminds us how precious a commodity it is, and how much is wasted in normal everyday life. Hopefully the government will remain stable, promote tourism more, reduce its corruption, and invest in basic infrastructure such as better roads, running water, and reliable electricity. Kenya is a magical country with wonderful people and so much to offer every traveller.